Some cookie doughs, like those used for classic holiday cutout cookies, require rolling, and Ina Garten and I have the same feelings about rolling pins. In her book Barefoot Contessa: How Easy Is That?, Garten says, “I prefer a French rolling pin because I can really feel the dough while I’m rolling it out.” I’m inclined to agree; when you use a rolling pin with handles, you’re (literally) more removed from the roller itself, which can make it more difficult to gauge things like the thickness of your dough.
With that in mind, a tapered design allows for better maneuverability, allowing you to shift the weight of your hands and the position of the roller as necessary. I find it easier (and more effective) to roll dough starting from the center and pushing out — since French rolling pins are thicker in the middle, more pressure is applied to the center of the dough, which can help prevent the edges from becoming too thin.
Another plus? French rolling pins are made of one piece of wood (solid rubberwood, in the case of this one), making them easier to clean — rolling pins with handles have more crannies that bits of food can get trapped in. Tapered rolling pins are also lighter than bulkier handled rollers, generally speaking, which translates to less arm fatigue.
