Are you sceptical about whether lifestyle choices impact your skin? Then let me invite you to consider Keith Richards.
After smoking an estimated 500,000 cigarettes, drinking gallons of whiskey and once going ‘without a wink’ of sleep for over a week, I think we can all agree the Rolling Stone has the face he deserves: one that resembles a pitted prune.
When I first started in the beauty game, skin experts were beginning to talk about the dermis-destroying effects of smoking.
Shortly after that they sussed that sun exposure was detrimental, as research followed pointing to the deleterious effects of sugar and then stress.
Over the past decade, we have seen the trend for linking a certain look to a particular habit. ‘Wine face’ equals red veins and bloatedness; ‘carb face’ has a potato-like puffiness.
A new slew of ‘faces’ is linked to lifestyle choices, some good, some bad. Of course, how much you modify your behaviour is up to you, but there’s a balance to be had. And it probably exists at the mid-point between Paltrow-esque clean living and the Richards-like excesses of Jack Daniel’s and coke (with a small c).
For me, it means I’ll keep running my 6k but apply SPF before I go. Wild, I know.
Ozempic face
Dr Sabrina Fabi, a cosmetic dermatologist based in California, notes that, while she’s aware of the drug’s life-changing effects, there is much discussion around the ‘unintended side effect of rapid weight loss’, which is ‘a gaunt, older-looking appearance’. She says this happens because of ‘faster facial fat loss…compared to body fat’, but she thinks there’s something else at play. She suggests that the drugs could be ‘adversely affecting dermal adipose tissue, altering skin’s stem-cell function and fat distribution, all of which are crucial for a youthful look’.
Cosmetic doctor Vicky Dondos says she sees ‘Ozempic face’ all the time in her London clinic. Many of her clients ‘have lost seven to ten kilos, and that brings joy, but accelerates ageing’. While you can’t change this drug’s effect on the dermis, you can counter the effects with diligent skincare and tweakments.
HRT face
‘I could walk into a room of post-menopausal patients and tell you who is on HRT just from their skin,’ says Anne Henderson, a consultant gynaecologist and a British Menopause Society advanced specialist. ‘HRT can boost skin’s texture and tone, reduce wrinkles and help resolve menopausal acne.’ She says women are often embarrassed to ask her about their skin because the medical profession has traditionally considered cosmetic benefits as superficial. Henderson rails against this and believes ‘feeling good on the outside makes you feel good on the inside’.
Why does HRT benefit our skin? Though the treatment is usually a mix of hormones – oestrogen, progestogen and occasionally testosterone – it’s oestrogen that has the collagen-boosting effect. This translates as stronger, firmer, glowy skin that’s less susceptible to irritation and conditions such as eczema and rosacea.
Should we take HRT for our skin if we have no other menopause symptoms? Henderson says it’s a controversial topic, but as long as the patient has a ‘fully informed discussion’ then she ‘doesn’t have an issue’ and it’s ‘their choice’.
Runner’s face
Dr Anjali Mahto, a renowned dermatologist and founder of the clinic Self London, says ‘runner’s face’ is a condition, characterised by facial fat loss and sagging skin, that can make joggers look older than their chronological age.
She says running reduces overall body fat, including facial fat that is crucial for maintaining a youthful appearance by providing volume and a smooth contour. This reduction, particularly in the cheeks and under-eye areas, can lead to a more hollowed appearance. Then there’s the ‘repetitive motion and impact’ of running, which ‘accelerates the breakdown of collagen and elastin fibres’.
Added to this is the exposure to harsh environmental factors such as sun, wind and pollution, which contribute to skin damage. Dr Mahto suggests a treatment called Sofwave: ultrasound is used to stimulate the production of new collagen. Diligent SPF will help to counter the damaging effects of UV rays.
Rosie’s Beauty Clinic
Q I keep hearing about polynucleotide treatments. What are they?
Louise Stuart, 53
A This procedure involves injecting salmon DNA into the skin to boost collagen and elastin. Many of my go-to cosmetic doctors are raving about the results, particularly in the under-eye area where it can effectively address dark circles and crepiness.
Send your queries to alice.robertson@mailonsunday.co.uk, using the subject line Ask Rosie
For a tenner
Q+A Collagen Body Butter (£10, boots.com). I’m loving this generous pot of unctuous cream. Perfect for parched skin on elbows and knees, it sinks in quickly and leaves limbs looking luxuriously glossy.
